Winter Skin

I haven't blogged in quite some time. My skin had been such a wreck, it didn't feel right to post entries about how to take care of your skin if I couldn't maintain my own.
I think things are back on track.
It's very true, skincare is more than just how you take care of yourself externally. The entire month of November I was very stressed out, was eating crappy food, chewed off all my nails and pretty much just stopped taking good care of myself. In order to be in balance, with nice looking, healthy skin I need the following:
1. Regular exercise. Yoga is best for me because it helps me breathe properly. When I am stressed out I breathe in a very shallow manner, which is terrible for managing stress and actually causes congestion in the cheek area.
2. A diet that is low in sugar. I am a bit of a sugar addict and when I am stressed out I take it to the extreme. This is bad.
3. Time to myself, away from my family at least a couple of hours once a week. And working doesn't count!
4. Regular, simple skincare routine. This is key. When my skin starts to freak out then I start to use every product in my arsenal trying to get it back in check. This doesn't work. The only thing that will work is to start to manage my stress and diet while maintaining a regular skincare routine. Then everything will start to balance itself out.
I really need compressing in my life, my skin really benefits from the extra circulation and gentle exfoliation it gets from it.
The holidays are a stressful time, central heating will really dehydrate the skin, dealing with presents and family can be hard emotionally. I am going to try and breathe deeply, eat wisely and take care of myself inside and out. I hope you all do the same.

Makeover Time!!

* Lately I've been kind of obsessed with creating a makeup questionnaire that I can use when doing makeup. I sometimes have a hard time ascertaining whether or not I am on the same page with a client and that gets tricky. While I've never had anyone say they were not happy, I have had the impression that we are not speaking the same language. (you say 'berry' and I think strawberry and you are actually thinking more apricot)
I think this could really help me really give the recipient of my makeovers exactly what they had in mind. With people I'm friends with I can kind of guess or make choices for them but for someone I don't know well, it can be very difficult. I created a 'look book' with different makeup looks I ripped out of magazines and put into a binder so my clients can also have a visual.

Here it is blank:
(below I've filled it out with my answers because it's fun. feel free to print it and take it with you next time you brave a department store makeover!)



Makeup Questionnaire:


1. I wear makeup _____________________

(ex: everyday, most days, sometimes, for special occasions, never)

2. Most of the time I want my makeup to be __________________

(ex: fun, simple, natural, dramatic)

3. I feel best when I look ________________

(ex: glamorous, healthy, well-rested, trendy)

4. If I had to wear one lipstick for the rest of my life it would be _______________

5. I prefer lipgloss/lipstick/lipbalm (choose one)

6. The one makeup look I would never do is __________________

7. The one makeup item I can't live without is _______________

8. Today I want to look __________________

9. I would be really unhappy if I looked ______________________

10. The products that are perfect for me are _________________________

I am still looking for the perfect __________________________________

11. I am able to experiment with different looks/I am most comfortable with a certain look (choose one)

12. I consider my skin to be:
(normal/combination, oily/problem,mature, sensitive)

13. T/F: I exfoliate regularly

14. T/F: I moisturize regularly

15. T/F: Today I am happy with the way my skin looks.




I looked through the book and I the ones I liked the most were:

Natural: pretty, neutral,romantic, balanced face, soft rosy cheeks and lips, dewey skin

Natural/Sun kissed: beachy, neutral, peach cheeks, apricot lips, bronzed skin

Dramatic: lots of color, metallics, focus on the eye, shimmery skin

Dramatic 40's Retro: vampy deep red lips with neutral eyes and cheeks, matte skin

Dramatic 60's Retro: Cat-eye liner, lots of mascara, pale mouth, velvety skin

Dramatic 70's Retro: Dark, smudgey liner, tough punk rock style, imperfect skin



Other Comments/Questions: _______________________________________


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Makeup Questionnaire:


1. I wear makeup most days

(ex: everyday, most days, sometimes, for special occasions, never)

2. Most of the time I want my makeup to be simple, natural, flattering, like myself but more glamorous

(ex: fun, simple, natural, dramatic)

3. I feel best when I look healthy, well-rested

(ex: glamorous, healthy, well-rested, trendy)

4. If I had to wear one lipstick for the rest of my life it would be a color like Dr. Hauschka #11 or Glominerals Snapdragon or Bare Escentuals Wild Woman Josie

5. I prefer lipgloss/lipstick/lipbalm (choose one) lipstick

6. The one makeup look I would never do is a lot of bronzer and orange-y colors.

7. The one makeup item I can't live without is lipstick

8. Today I want to look pretty.

9. I would be really unhappy if I looked trashy.

10. The products that are perfect for me are mineral makeup, Blinc kiss me mascara, powder blush, cream or liquid highlighters.

I am still looking for the perfect nothing. I am happy with most of my products.

11. I am able to experiment with different looks/I am most comfortable with a certain look (choose one) The first one

12. I consider my skin to be:
(normal/combination, oily/problem,mature, sensitive) normal/combination when in balance, a bit problem during stress or period

13. T/F: I exfoliate regularly T

14. T/F: I moisturize regularly T

15. T/F: Today I am happy with the way my skin looks. F




I looked through the book and I the ones I liked the most were: The first one but with soft/smudgey brown liner and shimmery eyes.

Natural: pretty, romantic, neutral, balanced face, soft rosy cheeks and lips, dewey skin

Natural/Sun kissed: innocent,beachy, neutral, peach cheeks, apricot lips, bronzed skin

Dramatic: lots of color, metallics, focus on the eye, shimmery skin

Dramatic 40's Retro: vampy deep red lips with neutral eyes and cheeks, matte skin

Dramatic 60's Retro: Cat-eye liner, lots of mascara, pale mouth, velvety skin

Dramatic 70's Retro: Dark, smudgey liner, tough punk rock style, imperfect skin



Other Comments/Questions: _______________________________________

The Dirty Two Dozen

Good quality brushes are really important for getting a smooth, beautiful application when you apply your makeup. I have a LOT of brushes, but these are the ones I use daily. The rest I have in my professional kit. I wash my professional brushes after every job I do, but sometimes my personal ones get a tad neglected.
I noticed recently that they were looking a bit scary so I gave them a bath. For smaller or synthetic brushes--eyeshadow, concealer, lip it is perfectly fine to mostly clean with instant brush cleaner.It is mostly alcohol, though and can dry out natural bristles, so for fuller brushes I usually use brush cleaner sparingly and shampoo them when I notice that they are holding too much product.
I use shampoo or mild natural hand soap and no conditioner. I know a lot of people think it's good because it will make the bristles softer but I worry about it leaving a residue that will end up on my face, clogging my pores. It's best to try and angle the brush down as you wash them so water doesn't enter the barrel and cause damage to the handle.
It's really entertaining for me to see all the gross stuff washing out of my brushes and so satisfying to see them all clean and happy. After gently squeezing out excess water with my index and middle fingers I lay them flat to dry on a paper towel.
In the morning they will be dry and will only need a little fluffing before using.

Kiss Me

The best red lipstick on the planet is Dr. Hauschka 06 Fortissimo.
It's a rich, true red not too blue or orange but a pure blood red. It's great for every skin tone which most reds are not. Even women who thought they couldn't wear reds can pull this one off.

Toxic Lipstick/Just Another Reason To Go Natural

Group: Lipsticks test positive for lead

Campaign for Safe Cosmetics reports it found lead in top brands including L'Oréal, Cover Girl and Christian Dior.

By Jessica Dickler, CNNMoney.com staff writer

October 12 2007: 3:39 PM EDT

NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- A significant proportion of lipstick manufactured in the United States and used by millions of American women contains surprisingly high levels of lead, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics said Thursday.

According to new product tests, 61 percent of brand-name lipsticks tested contained detectable levels of lead, which can be toxic if ingested.

The top brands testing positive for lead included L'Oréal Colour Riche "True Red," L'Oréal Colour Riche "Classic Wine," Cover Girl Incredifull Lipcolor "Maximum Red" and Dior Addict "Positive Red," the group said.

The FDA said it is aware of concerns about lead in lipstick and is following up on the report, a spokeswoman said.

"These concerns have not generally been supported by FDA's own analysis of products on the market," the spokeswoman said. "In the present case, we are looking into the specific details of the issues raised."

Federal regulation covers lead levels in lipstick coloring, she said.

An industry representative said the products tested by the CSC meet FDA standards.

"The FDA has set daily safe levels for lead exposure for adults, children and pregnant women," said John Bailey, the executive vice president for the Science Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, a trade group representing the cosmetics industry. "The agency also has set strict limits for lead levels allowed in the colors used in lipsticks."

In a statement, L'Oréal Group said it "is committed to upholding the highest standards of safety for all the products it makes and sells. Each and every ingredient used in our products has been thoroughly reviewed and tested by our internal safety team."

Procter & Gamble (Charts, Fortune 500), the company that owns Cover Girl, said it follows a "very rigorous scientific process" in evaluating its products and the ingredients used to make them.

"P&G stands behind the safety of our products because of the standards we set and the rigid requirements imposed by our industry," the company said.

A spokeswoman for Christian Dior cosmetics was not available for comment.

According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, one-third of the tested lipsticks exceeded the FDA's limit for lead in candy - a standard established to protect children from directly ingesting lead. Pregnant women and young children are particularly vulnerable to lead exposure.

"Lead builds up in the body over time and lead-containing lipstick applied several times a day, every day, can add up to significant exposure levels. The latest studies show there is no safe level of lead exposure," Mark Mitchell, M.D., president of the Connecticut Coalition for Environmental Justice said in the CSC statement.

The lead tests were conducted by an independent laboratory over the month of September on red lipsticks bought in Boston, Hartford, Conn., San Francisco and Minneapolis, according to the CSC.

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, established in 2002, is made up of women's, public health, labor, environmental health and consumer-rights groups including the Breast Cancer Fund, Clean Water Fund and National Environmental Trust.

Copied from Cnnmoney.com

I could not resist getting a picture of this...

Skincare Q and A

I get questions all the time from (mostly) ladies who are confused about how to take care of their skin. I thought I'd address those here. Here are the first ones I have received. If you have a question for me you can leave it as a comment and I will answer it or email me at:
jen@skinrhythm.com

Q: Do I need to remove my makeup before compressing?

A: Absolutely. If you don't then you are basically pushing makeup and grime into your relaxed pores. You should remove all makeup with a creamy cleanser or plain jojoba oil. Then you can compress and then use the cleansing cream like usual if you are doing the Dr. Hauschka cleansing ritual or whichever cleanser/exfoliant you are currently using.

Q: Is it ever ok to mix and match products? If I am doing the Dr. Hauschka cleansing ritual does that mean I can never try other products?

A: This is a tricky question but I will give you my opinion, using examples from the lines that I use.
I think that a lot of brands create their products to work synergistically with one another so you will get the best results by using one brand that you trust rather than a bunch of random products.
That being said, if you decide you do want to change components of your existing skincare regimen, that can be possible if you keep a few key things in mind.
For example: Dr. Hauschka cleansers do not disturb the acid mantle, the protective layer that sits on the surface of the skin. So the toners do not Ph balance the skin because it is not unbalanced after cleansing. Grateful Body cleansers also do not disturb the acid mantle so you could use their cleansers interchangeably.
Mychelle cleansers do disrupt the acid mantle and so their enzyme mist is designed to rebalance the skin and prepare it to receive the serums and moisturizers. If you do not use the mist after using one of their cleansers, then you are not getting the best results from the products.
If you used the Mychelle cleansers and then a Dr. Hauschka toner then your skin would have to scramble to rebalance itself and could send messages to your sebaceous glands to produce more oil, possibly causing breakouts.
But, if you wanted to do the full Hauschka regimen or the full Grateful Body system but wanted to use a Mychelle hyaluronic acid serum or vitamin C serum occasionally you could fit that in during the day under your moisturizer and it would not harm the skin.
If you could use the fruit enzyme mist to set your makeup and that would be fine. Or if you wanted to use the blueberry mask for antioxident benefits or the pumpkin peel for vitamin A and to purify the skin post-menstruation then that would also work.
If you just use the serums you don't need to change your other products but for me, if I'm going to use a Mychelle mask then I use the rest of their products too, to maximize it's efficacy. So I would use the Honeydew cleanser, fruit enzyme mist then apply the pumpkin peel, compress off then more enzyme mist followed by the pumpkin renew cream.
Most cleansers do disrupt the acid mantle, GB and DH are pretty unique in the fact that they don't. Foaming cleansers almost always disrupt the acid mantle while some creamy cleansers can leave it intact.
When in doubt, find a line you trust and stick mostly with them. I love holistic products but for me, my three favorites are by far Grateful Body, Mychelle Dermaceuticals and Dr. Hauschka. I do use them all, for different purposes and after assessing my skin's needs.
If you are confused by what your skincare needs are, it's great to get a skincare consultation from a holistic esthetician who can get a good idea of what your skin needs are by touching and examining it, but if you have a question I will do my best to answer it.

For more information on the lines I have mentioned you can look at their official websites:
www.drhauschka.com
www.mychelleusa.com
www.gratefulbody.com

Skin-ku

I woke up today
and looked into the mirror
thank god for makeup

Where it all began...

I moved to San Francisco in 1997 when I was twenty. I had a shaved head. Let's just say there was no makeup in the black backpack I bought from the Army/Navy store for my adventure. I was living at Fort Mason in the Marina, I had a live-in job at the youth hostel there and was given a cute white house to live in with my never-home co-worker/roommate, Ted. It was a part time job and I was new to the city I was a bit bored. It was walking distance to Chestnut Street and so spent a lot of time there.
One day I decided to go into the Body Shop. It was during the summer and there were pyramids of candy-colored glycerin soap stacked everywhere. I can still remember the way it smelled. I bought a bottle of Leap! perfume (exclamation point theirs) and a Cinnamon stick (chubby pencil lipstick...not the right color for me)
One day I noticed they were hiring and put in my application. I wore a long black dress and a cardigan for my interview. I don't really remember what they asked me but the assistant manager, a guy named Ryan had the flu and looked absolutely miserable. I got the job and was excited. It paid something like $7.25 an hour.
The uniform was this great black wrap skirt and matching top with a mandarin collar. Who knows what kind of shoes I rocked back then. Doc Martens I'm guessing. I became friends with my co-workers. Marissa, Rebecca and Ryan mostly. We sang along to our favorite tape which we referred to as the "Chick Mix." I discovered a love for Motown. We dressed up as "Strong Women" and I was Princess Leia.
One night I was closing the store with a manager named David who had always been cranky to me. He was not my favorite manager to close with and one night he was in the back room counting the drawers a few minutes before we locked up and I was just finishing restocking. I had just placed a Vanilla Stick in it's place when I saw a man standing over me with a gun. Yes. We were robbed. He didn't hurt us but it seemed like a very real possibility at the time. After that day David and I were buddies and I still think of him as one of my favorite people in San Francisco.
A happier memory was when Marissa and I (was Rebecca there, too?) were chosen to go to a makeup training so we could do makeovers in the store. I discovered I was really good at it. We were also chosen to help out at a talk given by the sassy British founder, Anita Roddick. Afterwards we all went out to dinner with her. She was a riot.
I left the Body Shop after a year because they didn't promote me to assistant manager. I went across the street to work at Bare Escentuals. (over the years I worked all over that street later going to BeneFIT Cosmetics and Heaven Day Spa respectively)
Anita Roddick, the founder of the Body Shop died recently from complications from Hepatitis C. She contracted the illness after a blood transfusion after delivering her daughter. She lived with the disease for years without having any idea that she had it.
This is staggering to me. I hadn't heard the news until I received emails from my old co-workers and dear friends. We still keep in touch although we are all scattered around the country now.
Ryan is living in New York with his partner, Daniel after a three year stint in Maine. Rebecca is still living in San Francisco with her husband, a very nice man from England. Marissa is the one we all live vicariously through. She's impulsive and adventurous and I'm never surprised when she suddenly emails me from Alaska. Here is part of the very touching email she sent us:

"While  i was standing in the kitchen listening to the news on the radio my
mind was filled with such amazing memeories of our times together. From
sing-a-longs to theme days, crying and laughing until almost peeing, to
sales contest and make-overs, corn eye shawdow to fawn shimmer, all the
kooks on Chestnut Street, all the kooks on Castro Street....
Our times made me the woman I am today.
I miss you all and will never
forget Anita!"

To say that getting that job in the summer of '97 changed the course of my life would not be an exaggeration. I discovered a love of skincare and makeup artistry and made lifelong friends.
It was also the first time I had encountered the activism and ethics side of body care products such as animal compassion and fair trade.
Thank you, Dame Anita.

Makeunder Time

Anyone who knows me knows my love of a nice full brow and bold lips, but even I am a little disturbed by this look, sported by Miss Manners.

In case you were wondering....

Yes, I have bad skin days too. This is a nasty hormonal breakout from stress and PMS. Also, I have not compressed in a couple of days. If the excess sebum my sebaceous glands were pumping out had not have been blocked by a layer of dead skin cells I may not have broken out so severely.

Skincare Consultation

I have helped probably thousands of people pick out skincare products over the years.
For part of that time I was working in smaller stores that sold only their own brand and after that I was with a natural pharmacy and a natural grocer who both sold lots of natural skincare lines ranging from very inexpensive to top of the line.
At both of those jobs I was an esthetician which almost made it harder in some cases. I would ask questions and get a lot of "well....you're the professional, what do YOU think?" Or I would get customers that would misunderstand why I was asking certain questions and get defensive. Here is what I normally would ask. In parenthesis is what information I was really after.

1. What are you currently using? (what is your price range?)
I'm not judging you. I don't care if you are using Clean & Clear or La Mer, you don't need to tell me every single product you use, I just need a ballpark range. I don't want to show you the $50 eye cream if you only want to spend $7.

2. Do you prefer a foaming or creamy cleanser? (what kind of skin do you think you have?)
Someone who is normal/oily will usually want to use a foaming cleanser while a normal/dry or mature client will want creamy. I don't usually say 'what is your skin TYPE' because no one is in one set category their entire life. I will also never say 'I can see you have mature skin' or 'I can see you have acne.' I know that everyone is very sensitive about their appearance and I would never want to be insulting.

3. Going back to #1 this also tells me if this is a person who wants every serum and eye cream out there or just wants a very basic regimen. This also will tell me if they are on harsh prescription topical products. If so, I would never suggest something too "active." (glycolics, enzymes, etc.)

4. Do you use sunscreen? (please tell me you use sunscreen)
This is basically a chance to educate customers on the damaging effects of the sun. A lot of people will say they aren't 'in the sun' often. Most sun damage I see here in Texas is on the left side of the face, where the skin is exposed while driving.

5. Are you taking supplements? (a good multi-vitamin, fish oil, probiotics and antioxidants are great for the skin and if someone has a particular problem that is not going away, treating internally can really help.

6. Are you under a lot of stress? (do you manage your stress well?) Most people have stress in their lives, it's just how modern life is. If someone tells me they are really having problems with their skin, and also they have a really stressful job and don't exercise, eat right or otherwise manage it, then that tells me that maybe they need a yoga class, not a new moisturizer.

I am always amazed at what most people use on their skin. 'oh, just bar soap.' 'ummmm....I don't remember, just something from the drugstore' or the worst: ANYONE over fourteen using Clean & Clear or Biore pore strips. (don't get me started...that's a whole other blog)
Everyone knows their skin better than I do, especially under fluorescent lights and a coat of foundation. I've had customers get mad at me because I can't tell them what their skin is like. I would need to take off their makeup, touch their face, ask lots of questions and look at their skin under a magnifying lamp in order to have even the first clue. I'm an esthetician, not a clairvoyant. If I could ask one thing of my customers it would be to take back their power, get to know their skin and it's habits and to be open to making lifestyle changes. Not everything can be fixed by a cream in a pretty jar.
Oh! And don't fully trust people on commission or with no formal skincare training. They don't always have your best interest at heart.

"I call this look: I am ready to PAR-TAY!"

Top Left: Before! The rest: After
Thursday was my friend, K's birthday. We had coffee at Whole Foods and hung out a bit that afternoon.That evening she had plans to go out for drinks to celebrate.
I've never quite met anyone like K. She is contradictory by nature. She gets good haircuts at a trendy salon by a hot rockabilly guy and owns more vintage clothes and more shoes that anyone I've ever met. Yet she doesn't seem to think she is pretty. She is afraid of pants and refuses to wear makeup most of the time. If I could get her to throw on some lipgloss for work I'd be thrilled. She has gorgeous hazel-y eyes, great cheekbones and full lips but you will never catch her advertising this fact. I have been waxing and tinting her brows for about a year now and it makes a huge difference, if I do say so myself. I agreed to do her makeup' if she came over to my house before hitting the town.
She showed up around 8 (only half an hour late which, for her is good) in a little black dress and a push-up bra. Excellent. She wanted a smoky eye, but only 'if I thought it would look good on her.' *sigh*
So I got to work taking her from the clean-faced-just-got-back-from-the-farmer's-market look to flat-out smokin' hot mama. Did I mention she has great features? She had a patch of breakouts along her right jawline that she's been battling but the rest of her skin was smooth and freshly moisturized.
I used Dr. Hauschka Puncto concealer #1 (which I used to think was horrible but that worked like a charm. I used a brush with it when before I just tested it from the tube. Now I love it but it's discontinued) and Mineral Fusion loose powder foundation to cover the breakouts and faint undereye shadows and slight redness around the nose then toned down shine and primed the eyelid area with Dr. Hauschka translucent loose powder.
I then applied Bare Escentuals blush in Lovely on her cheeks. I highlighted with the nude color in the Smashbox highlighting quad and applied Glominerals fawn shadow as a base color on her lids. I then heavily applied BeneFIT Bad Gal chunky black liner along her the upper and lower lashline on the outer corners of her eyes.
She took this inopportune moment to look in the mirror. I had already smudged the liner but not cleaned it up yet. She looked (as I told her) like 'Courtney Love on a bender' which coincidentally was NOT the look she was going for. There is a moment in every makeup job where if the client looks in the mirror they would run screaming. The key to good looking makeup is blending and I had not blended yet. After blending, blending, blending with a smudger I took a sharp black thin pencil and applied it along the lashline and the inner eye to add depth.
Then I applied black shimmery shadow to the crease and highlighted her brow bone and inner eye with Nude Beach by Bare Escentuals. I went over the inner eye with Glominerals Peach liner, filled in her brows with Glominerals brow pencil in Brunette and applied Blinc Kiss Me mascara in black concentrating on the lashes at the inner corners. I finished up with a nude pencil and neutral shimmery gloss on her lips.
My boys were being super-cute, running around trying to imitate me by 'blending' her arms with brushes and sponge wedges. Alex also crammed several sponges into her super-exposed birthday cleavage. I thought she got them all out but she found out otherwise when she was getting undressed later that night.
So, she was happy with her makeup and so was I. It was my intention to show her that it is possible for her to look glamorous and foxy.Now all she needs is the confidence to back it up. Unfortunately I can't give that to her, but hopefully the above pictures and all the compliments she received that night will help!
I have been doing makeup for a long time and I know that for someone who is unfamiliar with all the products and techniques it can seem overwhelming. But even for the biggest novice, there are quick and easy tricks that are great for casual, everyday makeup-- if you are willing.

Grateful Body

One of my absolute favorite small skincare companies is Grateful Body.
This is a line from Berkeley, California that I first encountered about five years ago, around the same time I discovered Hauschka. The founder, Shannon is brilliant and his philosophies on skincare really blew my mind. I have been to their headquarters and have personally watched them prepare the products by hand. They have such integrity and passion for great skincare and it really shows.
When you use a Grateful Body product you can literally feel your skin drinking it up. It feels amazingly vital and alive.
I sometimes get my head turned by the newest trendy natural product but GB is a line I always come back to.

The Key to Flawless Makeup

"The most beautiful cosmetic you can wear is a healthy skin."
-Jane Iredale

Healthy skin is crucial to even makeup application. If you have skin irritation (redness), some couperose or hyperpigmentation or the occasional breakout to cover, that's fine but if your skin is chronically unhealthy and unbalanced or if you are using harsh topical products that cause peeling or dry patches then nothing you use no matter how "good" or expensive is going to give you the desired results.
I wear so much less makeup when I am taking good care of my skin and I don't miss it. When I spend less time on foundation application I can spend more time grooming my brows or applying interesting eye makeup. I also hear a lot of people say they don't want to spend very much money on skincare. If you use something that works for you and use it regularly then you will spend so much less in the long run. You won't be spending as much on foundation (which is not cheap) or on costly serums, exfoliants and even prescription drugs to "treat" the skin. Once the skin is severely out of balance, that is usually when you would do something extreme and pricey to try and fix it immediately.
The key to flawless makeup is well-hydrated skin. Drink lots of water, eat well, exercise, and take a good multivitamin and essential fatty acids. Your skin will thank you!

My Friend Marie!

When I lived in Berkeley I worked for a great company called Elephant Pharmacy. I had the honor of being their very first esthetician hired and the second was a wonderful woman named Marie. She is a brilliant spitfire of a woman with a golden halo of hair. She is a chemist and fellow esthetician and I always loved having her around to help me answer more technical questions and just so I could pick her brain. I love chemistry and Marie made me even more interested in it.
I was the buyer and once we were meeting with a woman who had her own skincare line and she made all kinds of wild and dubious claims about her product. I asked her what specifically in her line ingredient-wise could do what she was claiming her product did. She told us that she went into the lab and 'spirits' told her what to put in her products and she couldn't explain how they could FULLY BLOCK THE SUN without the use of zinc, titanium dioxide or any chemical sunscreen agents. Marie asked her a few technical questions that she should have known the answers to but didn't. Well, let's just say we didn't end up carrying the product and the woman left in tears. Her husband came in and yelled at Marie. We were both stunned and later amused. We did not intend to be cruel or unfair to this woman but really, she had no business selling skincare.
Marie also has her own line of skincare called Marie-Veronique Skin Therapy and she's written a book called The Yoga Facelift.
I can't tell you how excited I am for her. She has so much knowledge and integrity and it's so great that she's helping so many people with her products and skincare philosophy. I've seen some of her Yoga for the Face classes and they really do produce results. Marie herself has the skin of a fifteen year old. (minus the acne)
When we were at Elephant together she had a huge following/fan base. I could tell a "Marie client" a mile away. We had the best time working side by side doing mini-facials and makeovers and since we had our own 'type' of customer we always complemented each other beautifully. I was teaching fun classes on how to make your own spa products at home and doing wedding makeup and Marie was teaching her fellow baby-boomers how to age with grace and style. "Alternative Aging" was how she referred to it, which is so much more realistic and attainable than "Anti-Aging." Really, who has found a way to truly stop the clock? That would be nobody and even if it were possible, would you really want to? I wouldn't.

The Ritual

Left: Mama and Alex press and roll, me and my monthly cleansing clay mask.

What makes Dr.Hauschka skincare so special is the daily skincare ritual. Everyone has a skincare routine, but with Dr. Hauschka it goes from being five seconds in the shower to five to ten minutes of special time for yourself.
The difference between a routine and a ritual is that routine reinforces continuity while rituals foster connection. In this case, it is a special time to reconnect with yourself before or after a hectic day.
Ironically, it was this aspect that kept me from using the products at first. I was intimidated by the pictures in their catalog of ceramic pitchers, special bowls and a serene environment. I just wanted to wash my face quickly, discreetly in the shower. I first used the cleansing cream in just that way, happily scrubbing away, the exact opposite of what the back of the tube instructed me to do. Needless to say, I was underwhelmed by the Dr. Hauschka products.Taken out of the whole line, the wonderful Cleansing Cream seemed strange and ineffectual. Of course, this was in my early-to-mid twenties, a time when I wasn't exactly taking the best care of myself.
Now I am in my thirties and I have two small children. I welcome the time to focus on me and apply my products to my skin lovingly and mindfully. It's exactly the kind of attention I would lavish on a client when doing a facial but never gave to myself.
And the serene environment? It's my kitchen. I do it even when both of my boys are racing around my legs. I do it even if I'm tired (especially when I'm tired) I started washing my face in the kitchen after I had my twins. My bathroom is connected to the bedroom where they sleep and I was always afraid of waking them. Slowly my skincare products migrated to a shelf in the kitchen, under the spices. Now they are all there, lined up like little soldiers waiting for me to call them into duty. It's actually a much better spot for them, they are not exposed to the steam from my showers. I also really like looking out the kitchen window into my backyard in the mornings as I do my skincare ritual.
I keep all of my skin compresses and headbands in a square plastic box with a lid and my stainless steel facial bowl in the strainer next to the sink.
Here is my interpretation of the Dr. Hauschka daily facial ritual, created by Elisabeth Sigmund. (who, by way is in her nineties and still and still doing the original regimen)

Daily: (a.m)
Step one: Compressing
Boil water. This is more something I do rather than a Hauschka-thing. I boil water in a kettle for several reasons. I can heat the water and not have to get to it immediately, I can do other things first. I also use part of the water for my morning cup of tea. I can use hot water from the tap, but it is a waste of water, waiting for it to be hot enough. So I boil the water in a kettle and pour it over my prepared facial bowl. The bowl is a basic stainless steel bowl that can be found at any Target or Bed, Bath and Beyond-type store. It is commonly used in the kitchen. (how appropriate!)
To the bowl I have added two pumps of lavender bath or one pump of lavender bath and one and a half pumps of lemon bath. I use lemon bath if I am feeling groggy or unfocused or if my skin is feeling particularly oily. I then place my compress into the bowl.
The water that is now in my bowl is clearly too hot to use. If I want to compress immediately then I add cool water until it is the right temperature. It should be very warm, but comfortable on the skin. If I don't want to compress right away then I do other things until the water cools and possibly add more warm water from the kettle.
Compressing is very important. It is the most relaxing part of the regimen and prepares the skin for the deep-pore cleansing benefits of the cleansing cream. It reminds me of watering dry, cracked earth. At first, the water just rolls off of the top of the soil because it is too dry to absorb moisture. But after a minute of being exposed to water it is softened enough to soak in and retain moisture. Sometimes when I first apply the compress my skin feels unreceptive to the moisture, then after a minute I can feel my skin softening.
At Dr. Hauschka they say that after one compress your skin is ready to cleanse but I enjoy it so much that I compress 4-6 times. I feel this really helps soften blackheads.

Step two: Cleansing:
There are technically two cleansers in the line, the creamy cleansing milk and the granular cleansing cream. They are for two specific purposes and not really meant to be interchangeable. The smooth cleansing milk is meant to remove makeup, the cleansing cream is to be used solely if you do not wear makeup and in the a.m if you do.
The cleansing cream is not a scrub. It does feel "scrubby" but isn't meant to be rubbed into the skin. You squeeze about 1/4" of the product into your palm, adding drops of lavender water until a loose paste has formed. You then apply you whole hands to your face, one on each side, wrists pointing down. With cupped hands, gently "press and roll":

Cleansing Cream: What do you mean by “press and roll”?

"Our unique "press and roll" cleansing method goes beyond the surface to stimulate the lymph and awaken your skin. First, dampen your face with warm water and mix 1/2" Cleansing Cream with a few drops of water in your hand. Relax your hands to gently cup the face. Beginning at the forehead, press the product in using your fingers and the tops of your palms, rolling outward from the center and lifting as you roll. The mild suction created helps remove dead cells, dirt and oil. Work downward and outward with this press and roll motion for one to three minutes, then rinse with warm water and finish with a cool splash." (from www.drhauschka.com)

I am quite stingy with my cleansing cream so I only use about 1/4" of product, and that seems to be just as effective. After massaging the cleansing cream into the skin, remove using the lavender-soaked compress. I usually use one side, remove the product starting at the forehead and firmly swiping down the face, then across towards the ears then turn over and use the other side to do the same. This will remove most of the product. I then set the compress on the sink (not back in the bowl) and splash my face about three times with the lavender water to remove any lingering cleansing cream. I then splash my face about three times with cool water to activate the erector pili muscle, squeezing any excess oil from the follicles to the surface of the skin. I then use a recycled paper towel to pat my skin dry (just so it's not dripping wet) then wipe off my sink. I rinse my bowl and my compress with the cool water. The compress is a very smooth, soft organic cotton and the cleansing cream rinses right off. Since the compress is white, you can see if there is any lingering behind. I then wring all excess water out of the compress and hang it to dry on a peg next to my sink. It dries really quickly and is ready to be used again for my p.m regimen.

Step three: Tone, moisturize, and protect
Right now I am using the clarifying toner and I am the opposite of stingy with this. I spray it liberally over my face and neck. I have counted when I am feeling particularly free with my toner and counted up to twenty-five sprays. For everyone else, about five to seven is about right. You can also spray into your palm and press into the skin.
Then you are ready for moisturizer. I use normalizing day oil when my skin is breaking out and either quince day cream or rose day cream light when it is balanced. I am also stingy with this product, a little goes a long way. I squeeze out a pea-size amount into my palm then dab onto my forehead, both cheeks, and chin then pat the rest of the moisturizer onto my entire face and neck.
Once this is absorbed (there will be a thin protective layer but shouldn't feel greasy or too slippery or tacky) I mix the translucent bronze concentrate (a few drops) with the spf 30 sunscreen and apply the same way. If my skin is not breaking out, this eliminates the need for foundation. If it is, then I will use a little concealer and follow up with translucent powder.

Daily: (p.m)
Follow steps one and two as in the a.m regimen. Follow with toner. Go to sleep!

Weekly: (p.m)
Once a week I compress and cleanse like usual, then apply the Rejuvenating Mask and leave on for twenty five minutes. I then compress it off and apply toner.

Monthly: (p.m)
Once a month I compress and use the cleansing clay mask. I usually do this around the time of my period.

The Effects of Corporate Greed on the Beauty Industry

I've never really "gotten" MAC. As someone in the beauty industry and more specifically as a makeup artist I've always been aware that I was supposed to see them as the Holy Grail of cosmetics. Yet I never really have.
I'm not saying I've NEVER purchased a MAC product. There have been a lipglass or shadow here and there and the occasional nailpolish purchase. But I have never been interested in stocking my professional kit solid with MAC products, regardless of the "fact" that they are supposed to be for makeup artists.
After Estee Lauder acquired the company the quality and packaging went straight downhill. The difference, for me as a casual user was subtle. But for artists who were diehard fans, it was a powerful change--and a slap in the face. After freelance makeup artists began to look elsewhere for professional supplies the corporate machine kicked into high gear and began to manufacture their own "brand artists" to keep the buzz alive and make it seem as if everyone who was anyone still wanted to use the line.
I've seen this happen many times, as a fan of natural products. The holistic buzz is so loud, of course it has attracted corporate attention. So goods that were once created out of love for a pure, botanical product are now produced for profit first, quality second. And the yummy botanical ingredients gave way to cheaper synthetics and lower-quality essential oils.
The best thing we, as consumers can do to stop this is to simply stop purchasing these products. If a beloved company was sold to a corporate giant and the quality has suffered, refuse to buy them. That will send a message that this is not ok.
For me, natural cosmetics just jive better with my personal ideals. And natural products can now aggressively compete with conventional, even professionally. Products that were once 'weird and hippie-ish' are now smooth, beautiful and come in a wide range of colors. Packaging that was once offbeat and homespun is now slick and attractive.
A few of my favorite brands include: Jane Iredale, Glominerals/Mineral Fusion, and Dr. Hauschka.

Why I am an Esthetician...

I get that question a lot: what made you become an esthetician? I always say something like 'oh, well, when I was twenty I got a job at the Body Shop in San Francisco and really enjoyed it and discovered I was good at applying makeup so after that I worked for Bare Escentuals then went to beauty school.'
But the truth is: My name is Jennifer and I have a unibrow. I struggled with my single eyebrow for years. I had all kinds of bad brow experiences: shaving them with razors typically used for legs and beards (cuts AND stubble....nice) over-tweezing, overtrimming, overgrowing, you name it. It took me years and years to find the proper brow shape, I'm thirty and it's only been a few years since I figured it out.
My husband is always urging me to 'go Frida' and let my brows unite once again. He said he wanted to see what it looks like. So I dug out this picture of me in the seventh grade, circa 1989. Rave hairspray was my favorite although I also dabbled in Aqua Net. I had a perm AND frosted hair. I chose an orange mock-turtleneck ( I also one in mustard and one in purple, three colors I should NEVER EVER wear) for my class photos. I was self-conscious about my teeth so I didn't smile.
In short, I was a mess. I always knew the power of appearance. On how it affects how you feel and how others treat you. I went into the beauty industry to help people nudge out their inner beauty. I realized two things: we are our own biggest critics and a good brow wax can change your life.

Thirteen years old, painfully shy:


Two-tone hair, unibrow, perm:


My makeup actually looks really good, though:

Skincare Challenge Overview

I apologize for the choppiness of my skincare challenge posts, the only time I have to blog is in the middle of the night while the boys sleep and I'm not the most tech-savvy to begin with.
I learned a lot about myself and about skincare from this experience. Taking pictures has really helped me to see my skin exactly the way it is, without my ego filter.
I have been in beauty retail for ten years now and so often I've been frustrated by clients that said "I don't know" when I asked what their skin condition was. Now I see that they were being more truthful than I was.
So many factors affect the way our skin looks: diet, lifestyle, products, stress-level, hormones, overall health and so on. But so often I think we would like to blame it all on products: "oh, that doesn't work for me" when maybe what we need to look at is our overall habits and lifestyle. I use top of the line products faithfully AND I'm an esthetician but I don't have flawless skin because of lifestyle choices I make. I choose to co-sleep with my boys even though I know their little heads are a bacterial breeding ground. I touch my face. I need to wash my makeup brushes. I need to wipe off my phone. Have I changed my pillow cases recently? I need to go to yoga, my stress level is through the roof....
But lately my skin is looking great despite those things. The weather is good, I'm getting along great with my husband, I was gifted several new outfits including a really flattering skirt that makes me feel great, my period has past....PLUS I have a consistent skincare routine.
, I really feel like this was a completely worthwhile experiment.

Week Four--Skincare Challenge

Day twenty-two: I look good in blue...
Day twenty-three: What do you think the cell turnover on two-year old skin is? Like every three days?
Day twenty-four: Recovering...
Day twenty-five: Better....
Day twenty-six: Pretty good...


Day twenty-seven: Back to normal...

Day twenty-eight: I look good in red!!! I'm almost going to miss taking self-portraits, although it will be nice to not have the husband making fun of me daily. "oh, bad one--deleting"

Week Three--The Skincare Challenge

Day fifteen: Hanging in there...
Day sixteen: Getting tired of the side-face self portrait...
Day seventeen: Don't look at me, I have PMS breakouts...
Day eighteen: Grrr!!! I'm serious!
Day nineteen: Why am I wearing orange again?
Day twenty: Horrible, irritated blemish-y...hormones suck.

Day twenty-one: A little makeup makes things much better...

Week Two--The Skincare Challenge

Day eight: All I need is a little number 11 effetuoso lipstick and a cute top and I look great! I'm going to save so much money on makeup!
Day nine: Yikes, go back to bed! A bit of irritation around my nose...
Day ten: Going back to co-sleeping is taking a bit of a toll on my skin. Having two little heads pressed against my face all night is bound to cause a few breakouts...
Day eleven: Looking good!
Day twelve: Ditto...
Day thirteen: Who looks horrible in orange? I do!

Day fourteen: My skin is looking good, but not as good as Maxi's!!!

Week One--The Skincare Challenge

Day one: I started right away, in my room at the Lord Jeffery. ( I had a fabulous room, I didn't realize til the last day that not everyone had such posh accommodations.) My skin was a wreck. I was stressed out because I was sad to leave the boys for the first time and sad because my sweet cousin Hollie had just passed away. I had a rash from the aspirin mask I was dumb enough to use also.
Day two: Wow, look what a good night's sleep and some lavender compresses can do for the skin! I also realize now that contrary to what I've always thought, my skin looks best in natural light. Who knew?
Day three: Pillow creases on my face. How attractive...
Day four: Are those MORE pillow creases? Did I mention that I slept like a rock at the Lord Jeffery?
Day five: Is it apparent yet that I'm not a morning person? This is my first day back in Austin after a great trip to Amherst, Mass.
Day six: Natural lighting again...my skin has never looked this good without makeup before. Also, I just realized that I look much better in colors other than black...

Day seven: My skin looks great!

The Two Rudolfs

"For 40 years Dr.Hauschka Skin Care has led the way in holistic skin care. Early in the last century, chemist Dr. Rudolf Hauschka asked philosopher and scholar Dr. Rudolf Steiner the ultimate question: "what is life?"

"Study rhythm," Steiner replied, "rhythm is the carrier of life."

In the following years, Hauschka began developing plant-based healing remedies based on Steiner’s teachings. Inspired by their conversation, Hauschka found that by using the rhythms and polarities of Nature he was able to create plant extracts that retained the vital forces of the living plant and remained stable without the use of alcohol or artificial preservatives. This startling discovery inspired Dr. Hauschka and his colleagues to found a holistic pharmaceutical company, which they called WALA Heilmittel; WALA for Hauschka’s unique rhythmical process (warmth, ash, light, ash) and Heilmittel, the German word for remedy."

-From www.drhauschka.com

Decoratives Makeovers

These girls were so cute, they're students from the University of Ohio and were visiting family here in Texas. They had never used DH products before or even heard of them, but one of their moms was a fan and wanted them to wear 'more natural makeup.' They both already had makeup on but I just worked around it. They both loved the products and it was fun introducing two glitter-wearing Sephora shoppers to Dr. Hauschka makeup. And the mom approved, too!